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The village of Withypool, nestled in the heart of Exmoor National Park in Somerset, has a history that spans from the prehistoric era to the modern day. Known as the “administrative capital of Exmoor” from the 13th to the 17th century, it remains one of the most historically rich villages in the region.

1. Prehistoric & Ancient Roots

• Withypool Stone Circle: Located on the southwestern slope of Withypool Hill, this Bronze Age monument consists of approximately 30 small stones (though it likely once had 100). It was rediscovered in 1898 when a rider’s horse stumbled upon one of the stones.

• Brightworthy Barrows: These are ancient burial mounds found on Withypool Common, dating back to the Bronze Age.

• Domesday Book: Withypool appears in the 1086 Domesday Book (as Widepolla), where it was recorded as being tended by three foresters: Dodo, Almer, and Godric. The name “Withy” refers to the willow trees that grow along the River Barle.

2. Literary and Spy Connections

The Royal Oak Inn, a 17th-century building, is the village’s most famous landmark for its notable guests:

• R.D. Blackmore: The author is said to have written part of his classic Exmoor novel, Lorna Doone, in the bar of the inn.

• Sir Alfred Munnings: One of England’s finest painters of horses had a studio in the inn’s loft.

• The Inspiration for “M”: In the 1930s, the inn was owned by Maxwell Knight, a spy-ring leader and MI5 officer who was the real-life inspiration for “M” in Ian Fleming’s James Bond series.

• General Eisenhower: During WWII, General Dwight D. Eisenhower stayed at the Royal Oak to plan aspects of the D-Day landings while American troops trained at nearby Woolacombe Beach.

3. Notable Landmarks

• Church of St Andrew: A Grade II* listed building with late medieval origins. Its most significant historical feature is a Norman font dating back to approximately 1170. The church tower was rebuilt in the 17th century and again in 1902.

• Withypool Bridge: This six-arch red sandstone bridge over the River Barle was built in the mid-19th century and is Grade II listed.

• Tarr Steps: Located a few miles from the village, this is one of the most famous clapper bridges in the UK, believed to date back to the medieval period (though some suggest prehistoric origins).

• Vintage Petrol Pumps: The village is home to a rare set of early 20th-century Shell petrol pumps (Beckmeter and Avery-Hardoll models), which are among the last of their kind in the UK. They only stopped serving fuel during the foot-and-mouth outbreak in 2001.

4. Historical Governance

For centuries, Withypool was a central hub for Exmoor forest administration. A Swainmote Court (a traditional court for forest matters) was held in the village until the late 17th century. Interestingly, in the 14th century, the famous poet Geoffrey Chaucer served as a forester for the North Petherton estate, which included duties in the area.